Phillip and I emerged from the subway near Rockefeller Center. “This is midtown,” Phillip said pointing at the twinkling buildings around us. “That way is uptown. That way is downtown.” I was trying to play it cool, to look like I fit in, to be a wallet-tucked-away-in-my-back-pocket kind of person. I tried to put on a cool front, to appear entirely unmoved by what was unfolding around me. My unmoved expression, of course, didn’t last. I don’t believe that anyone can take their first, virgin steps down a New York City sidewalk and not look like Charlie Bucket walking into the…